Wednesday, October 9, 2019

2019 Girls' Trip to Italy (Trip Recap, Days 6, 7, 8)

This week La Dolce Vita Travels is publishing a series of posts recapping our Girls' Trip to Italy. I do this for several reasons: as a means of transcribing my travel journal, to share our trip with all those who have been asking how it went, and to plant seeds of interest for our next trip (and there will be another one). 

The series will be five parts, corresponding to the five cities in which we stayed--Pistoia (Tuscany), Santa Margherita (the Italian Riviera), Stresa (Italian lakes region), Bolzano, and Venezia. Today, we leave beautiful S. Margherita Ligure and head toward Stresa in the Italian lakes district of northern Italy.

Day 6: S. Margherita Ligure-Milano-Stresa (Sept. 24)

As difficult as it was to leave the Italian Riviera, I knew we were heading to the Italian lakes district and the Dolomites ... and glacial lakes and mountains are my happy place. We left early in the morning for Stresa, stopping first in Milano for a half day tour of the city. Located in northwestern Italy, Milano is the second largest city (after Rome) and is widely regarded as a global capital in industrial design, fashion and architecture. It is also a major national and international center for the performing arts, most notably opera.

We began our tour at the 15th century Sforza Castle, after which we toured the famous La Scala Opera House (founded in 1778 by Empress Maria Theresa of Austria). We then walked to Galleria Vittorio Emanelle II (referred to as La Galleria), Italy's oldest active shopping mall and a major landmark of Milano. The floor is covered in mosaics, and Thalia did the traditional three turns on the dancing bull's eh-hem private parts for good luck.

Walking through the glass-covered Galleria brings you right to the Piazza del Duomo and the beautiful Cathedral of Milano. The cathedral took nearly six centuries to complete and contains 3,400 statues, 135 gargoyles, and 700 figures. Over the apse, illuminated by a small red light, is a nail from the cross of Christ. Interestingly, the cathedral does not have a bell tower.

Later that afternoon we drove toward the town of Stresa on Lago (lake) Maggiore, a glacial lake that is the 2nd largest in Italy. We checked into our hotel, the Regina Palace, which was replete with old world charm and elegance ... like a scene from Downton Abbey. Dinner that evening was on our own, so we tried some of the local cuisine downtown.

The Cathedral of Milano

Two sisters shopping at La Galleria

Thalia, demonstrating the traditional three turns 
on the dancing bull's eh-hem private parts for good luck.

La Scala Opera House
and Mary Brooke, a classically trained opera singer

Hotel Regina Palace, Stresa, Italy

Dinner on the town (it was Mary Brooke's birthday)

Gayle, Brenda, Maria, Mary, and Thalia heading out to dinner

Jane (tour director) and Rocco (bus driver)

Our delicious meal: seafood roulade, bread basket,
sea bass, and a deconstructed semifreddo

Day 7: Stresa-Lago Maggiore-Stresa (Sept. 25)

Today we took a boat ride to the Borromean islands in the middle of Lago Maggiore: Isola Bella and Isola dei Pescatori. On Isola Bella we toured the 17th century palazzo owned by the Borromeo family (who are still prominent today) and then enjoyed the palazzo's lovely terraced gardens. From Isola Bella, we took the boat to Isola dei Pescatori (Fisherman's Island) where we had lunch at Ristorante La Pescheria and then had free time to explore the island.

Upon our return to Stresa, we had the rest of the day to explore, shop, rest, and dine.

Isola Bella

Touring the palazzo owned by the Borromeo family

group photo in the terraced gardens

gardens of Isola Bella

Stunning views

fishing nets on Isola dei Pescatori

Lunch and free time on Isola dei Pescatori

Day 8: Stresa-Lake Orta-Stresa (Sept. 26)

This morning we went off the beaten path to Lake Orta, often referred to as La Cenerentola (Cinderella) because it is the lesser known of the Italian Lakes. We arrived to the town, Orta San Giulio, and immediately took a boat for the island,  Isola San Giulio. The island is dominated by the Basilica of San Giulio and a Benedictine Monastery. The footpath encircling the island enables you to walk the Way of Silence or, if you turn and go in the opposite direction, the Way of Meditation. The island, in the middle of a lake surrounded by mountains, was so quiet and peaceful.

The island is also associated with a legend: During the latter half of the 4th century, San Giulio (Julius of Novara) had an inspiration to build a church on the island, but he was discouraged by the locals who claimed the island was inhabited by a fearsome dragon. Since no boatman would accompany him to the island, San Giulio prayed to God and floated to the island on his cloak. There, he defeated the dragon and the villagers converted to Christianity and helped him build the church. San Giulio was buried on the island, and his remains are still there on display. 

We returned to the town, Orta San Giulio, where we explored, shopped, and had lunch.

On the way back to Stresa, Rocco dropped off a group who wanted to ride the Funivia Stresa (a series of two cable cars and one chair lift) to reach the top of the mountain, Mottarone.

That night, we ate at Ristorante Mamma Mia to commemorate our last night in Stresa.

Getting ready to board our boat for Isola San Giulio.
I'm very proud of this photo ... I captured a bird in flight!

Isola San Giulio

On the shores of Isola San Giulio

Loving the peace, quiet, and spirituality of Isola San Giulio

2 cable cars + one chair lift =
on top of the world on Monte Mottarone

Farewell Dinner at Ristorante Mamma Mia, 
Stresa, Italy

The mountains are calling and I must go ...

Tomorrow: We leave Stresa and head for Bolzano, a little bit of Bavaria in Italy.

Tuesday, October 8, 2019

2019 Girls' Trip to Italy (Trip Recap, Days 4,5)

For the next week, La Dolce Vita Travels will publish a series of posts recapping our Girls' Trip to Italy. I do this for several reasons: as a means of transcribing my travel journal, to share our trip with all those who have been asking how it went, and to plant seeds of interest for our next trip (and there will be another one). 

The series will be five parts, corresponding to the five cities in which we stayed--Pistoia (Tuscany), Santa Margherita (the Italian Riviera), Stresa (Italian lakes region), Bolzano, and Venezia. Today, we move on from Pistoia and head toward S. Margherita Ligure on the Italian Riviera

Day 4: Pistoia-Porto Venere-Santa Margherita Ligure (Sept. 22) 

This morning we said arrivederci to Pistoia and Tuscany and boarded our bus for Cinque Terre, the five fishing villages that form part of the Italian Riviera. As any traveler knows, now matter how meticulous the planning one is still at the mercy of the weather. Sure enough, rain during the night and the early morning meant our tour bus was not permitted to drive to Cinque Terre; instead, he took us to an overlook so we could see the villages from above. Then, a change in the itinerary brought us to Porto Venere which, while not part of the five villages of Cinque Terre, is still part of the Italian Riviera. There were no complaints from our group because we loved this tiny town with its picturesque harbor lined with brightly colored houses, rugged coastline, ancient city gate, and narrow, Medieval streets leading to the Church of San Pietro. Nearby was Byron's Cave where, according to tradition, the poet Byron used to swim.  We spent the day exploring, shopping, climbing the ruins, and trying the local seafood and pesto. And the weather cooperated. It stopped raining just long enough for us to do everything we wanted, and only started up again just as we were leaving.

On the bus later that afternoon, the church choir group from Columbia, SC (Laura K., Karla, Rose Ann, Debbie) and our classically trained opera singer, Mary Brooke, sang Dona Nobis Pacem, after which Mary Brooke sang an aria from Puccini's La Bohème. There may have been some tears shed.

We arrived to Santa Marghertia Ligure (also on the Italian Riviera) and checked into our hotel. In planning the trip I had been guaranteed that we'd all have a room with a view ... and what a view it was! The best part was that all our balconies were clustered together, so we took some fun photos of one another. That evening, dinner was on our own so everyone ventured downtown to dine like a local.

Marveling at the views in Porto Venere

Cinque Terre

Scenes from Porto Venere

Every church we entered, we lit candles for loved ones.

The views were spectacular!

Rain? No problem for our adventurous group!

When you have members of a choir and a classically
trained opera singer ... there is singing on the bus.

View from our hotel in Santa Margherita Ligure

We were like the Brady Bunch on our balconies!

Dinner in downtown S. Margherita Ligure

Day 5: Portofino (Sept. 23) 

A morning ferry ride took us to Portofino, formerly a simple fishing village but now the playground of the rich and famous. The day was ours to explore, and many took advantage of the free time to enjoy a leisurely lunch, hike to the church and/or castle, shop, enjoy a gelato (or two!), and for a few adventurous souls, a walk along the coastline back to Santa Maria Ligure instead of taking the ferry.

That evening we walked around S. Margherita Ligure (really, one of my favorite towns) and tried some of the local cuisine. (Porcini mushrooms were in season, so I had risotto with Porcini muchrooms, pizza with prosciutto and Porcini mushrooms, and let's just say I love Porcini mushrooms.)

Since tomorrow we were moving on, some of us had to pack. And some of us were a little disorganized about it. Hence the slightly sarcastic photo my loving sister posted on our WhatsApp page ;-)

A peek of Portofino

Dining, exploring, shopping, and loving Portofino!

That little raft in the upper right photo? 
The only one I could afford.

Taking in the views with a sister and a sister-in-law.

Dining in S. Margherita Ligure

Note: I did get packed ... eventually. 

Love those evening walks in Italy.

Tomorrow: Days 6, 7, and 8 take us to one of my favorite regions in Italy ... the Italian northern lakes. Glacial lakes and majestic mountains ... and just like that I'm in my happy place.

Monday, October 7, 2019

2019 Girls' Trip to Italy (Trip Recap, Days 1-3)

For the next week, La Dolce Vita Travels will publish a series of posts recapping our Girls' Trip to Italy. I do this for several reasons: as a means of transcribing my travel journal, to share our trip with all those who have been asking how it went, and to plant seeds of interest for our next trip (and there will be another one). 

The series will be five parts, corresponding to the five cities in which we stayed--Pistoia (Tuscany), Santa Margherita (the Italian Riviera), Stresa (Italian lakes region), Bolzano, and Venezia. Today I begin with Pistoia ...

Day 0: Departure Day (Sept. 18)

After a year of planning, departure day finally arrived. Twenty-six of us departed Augusta and met up with the rest of our group in Atlanta (2 from Florida, 1 from NYC, 1 from Atlanta, and 1 from Maryland) for our evening flight to Europe. Our flight itinerary included a connecting flight in Amsterdam, which then landed us in Florence, Italy late in the afternoon of the 19th. 

Day 1: Florence-Pistoia (Sept. 19)

In baggage claim we were reunited with Jane Stortiglione (our Tour Director) who had accompanied on our last trip to Rome and the Amalfi Coast. It was great to see her again. We were introduced to our bus driver, Rocco, who loaded our luggage and drove us to Pistoia (named Italy's Capital of Culture in 2017). After unpacking and exploring the hotel and its grounds, we reconvened that evening for a Welcome Dinner at the hotel restaurant where we took our first official group photo in Italy!

Welcome Dinner in Pistoia

2018 Girls' Trip to Italy

Villa Cappugi 
Jane (Tour Director), Laura, Maria, Mollie


Day 2: Pistoia-Florence-Pistoia (Sept. 20)

A busy day awaited us since we were headed to Florence, the birthplace of the Renaissance! On the way we stopped at Piazzale Michelangelo for an overlook with breathtaking views of the iconic skyline that is Florence. From there we went to Piazza Santa Croce where we visited the Misuri Leather Guild, after which we had several hours of free time in which some toured the Church of Santa Croce, some had a leisurely lunch, most shopped, and everyone tasted their first gelato. 

The afternoon was all about art! We visited Piazza della Signoria to see Cellini's statue of Perseus, a copy of Michelangelo's David, and the courtyard of Palazzo Vecchio. Afterwards, it was on to Santa Maria del Fiore (the Duomo), Brunelleschi's dome, Ghibertti's baptistery doors, and Giotto's bell tower. The highlight of the day was a visit to the Galleria dell'Accademia to see Michelangelo's David. 

We returned to Pistoia in the late afternoon and that evening dined al fresco at the hotel.

Our hotel in Pistoia, Villa Cappugi.
Up bright and early for a full-day tour to Florence.

Boarding the Girls' Trip to Italy bus. Florence here we come!

View of Florence from Piazzale Michelangelo

Gelato ... so many flavors, so little time!

Church of Santa Croce, Florence 
Michelangelo, Machiavelli, and Galileo are all buried here.
There is also Dante's tomb, but it is empty. 
He is buried in Ravenna since he was exiled from Florence.

Piazza della Signoria 
(original location of Michelangelo's David)

Santa Maria del Fiore (the Duomo)

closeup of Brunelleschi's dome

Galleria dell' Accademia
Michelangelo's David and the captives (or prisoners) 
which are Michelangelo's unfinished sculptures.

We had studied Michelangelo's David before leaving home,
so it was powerful seeing it in person.

Day 3: Pistoia-Siena-Chianti Classico-Pistoia

This morning we drove into the heart of Tuscany, stopping first in Siena where we met our local tour guide who began our tour at the Church of San Domenico which contains a relic of St. Catherine of Siena (more specifically, her head). Afterwards, we walked through a maze of narrow streets, alleys, and contrade (neighborhoods), stopping to take photos of the Cathedral before continuing to the Piazza del Campo where the famous Palio (bareback horse race) takes place twice a year. Amazingly, we were introduced to Rosanna Bonelli (nickname: Rompicollo) who, in 1957, became the first (and only) woman to race as a jockey in the Palio. We all LOVED Siena.

For lunch we drove through the Chianti region and stopped at the Palagetto Vineyard for a tour, wine tasting, and a lovely lunch seated at tables nestled between rows of wine barrels.

The afternoon we explored San Gimignano, a walled medieval town in which 14 of its original 72 towers are still standing. The city is also where the famous Franco Zeffirelli movie, Tea with Mussolini, was filmed.

In the evening, some attended a cooking class hosted by Celebrity Chef Fabiano, some relaxed at the hotel, and some explored downtown Pistoia.

Siena

Siena's contrade (neighborhoods) and the Piazza del Campo

It was an honor to meet Rosanna Bonelli who, in 1957, became 
the first (and only) woman to race as a jockey in Siena's Palio. 

Palagetto Vineyard, San Gimignano

Thalia, Brenda, Cathy, and Joan
Let the wine tasting begin!

Mary Brooke, Jennifer, Teresa, Lou
Enjoying a sunny day at Palagetto Vineyard.

San Gimignano
(lower left is the Hotel Cisterna featured in Franco Zeffirelli's 
movie, Tea with Mussolini)

Dinner on the piazza in downtown Pistoia.

Cooking class with celebrity chef, Fabiano.


Stay tuned for Days 4-5 where we go to the Italian Riviera!