The series will be five parts, corresponding to the five cities in which we stayed--Pistoia (Tuscany), Santa Margherita (the Italian Riviera), Stresa (Italian lakes region), Bolzano, and Venezia. Today, we leave the shores of Lago Maggiore and head toward Bolzano.
Day 9: Stresa-Franciacorta-Bolzano (Sept. 27)
After one last breakfast served by waiters straight from Downton Abbey, we said arrivederci to our three night stay in Stresa and headed for Bolzano, stopping first at the Bellavista Vineyard in Franciacorta, a region known for their white grapes and the wines they produce. At Bellavista we learned how the owner, Vittorio Monetti, turned a small family-run wine making activity into a full-fledged business, keeping to tradition by using an 8-step process that begins with harvesting and ends with packaging. The heart of their method is perlage (the process whereby bubbles are introduced) and Bellavista is proud that the bubbles in their wines develop naturally (as opposed to in a factory) and therefore do not cause headaches; additionally, unlike champagne which is aged 15 months, Bellavista sparkling wines are aged for 36 months (3 years), and 90,000 bottles are turned daily by hand during the aging process. After the tour we were treated to a wine tasting of two different Bellavista wines, both of which were absolutely delicious.
Day 9: Stresa-Franciacorta-Bolzano (Sept. 27)
After one last breakfast served by waiters straight from Downton Abbey, we said arrivederci to our three night stay in Stresa and headed for Bolzano, stopping first at the Bellavista Vineyard in Franciacorta, a region known for their white grapes and the wines they produce. At Bellavista we learned how the owner, Vittorio Monetti, turned a small family-run wine making activity into a full-fledged business, keeping to tradition by using an 8-step process that begins with harvesting and ends with packaging. The heart of their method is perlage (the process whereby bubbles are introduced) and Bellavista is proud that the bubbles in their wines develop naturally (as opposed to in a factory) and therefore do not cause headaches; additionally, unlike champagne which is aged 15 months, Bellavista sparkling wines are aged for 36 months (3 years), and 90,000 bottles are turned daily by hand during the aging process. After the tour we were treated to a wine tasting of two different Bellavista wines, both of which were absolutely delicious.
After
leaving the vineyard we drove a short distance to Agriturismo Bertola for
lunch. An agriturisimo is a working
farm that has opened up part of their property for lodging and dining. The best
part of an agriturismo is the food
since everything they serve—produce, eggs, meat, and wine—is either produced on
their farm or sourced from the surrounding area; hence, everything is fresh. At
Agriturismo Bertola we had a delicious lunch (with even more wine!) and then continued
our journey toward Bolzano.
Just in case you missed it, wine mid-morning and wine for lunch ... we were a happy group when we got back on the bus for the drive to Bolzano. Poor Rocco.
We arrived in Bolzano by early evening. Some people took taxis to go eat downtown, while others shopped at the Italian grocery store across the street and pooled their purchases for an impromptu picnic back at the hotel.
Our waiters spoiled us.
When I got home I had to make my own cappuccino.
Darn it.
Bellavista Wines overlook the Franciacorta region
known for growing white grapes.
At the entrance was this very intriguing sculpture.
Bellavista wines.
All of the 90,000 bottles are turned daily by hand.
Gathering for a wine tasting.
Salute!
Bellavista wines are light, refreshing, and sophisticated.
Thirty minutes later, lunch at Agriturismo Bertola with
even MORE wine.
Boarding the bus for Bolzano.
Poor Rocco ... all these women.
Our lovely tour director, Jane, as we checked into our hotel
in Bolzano. The hotel brought the outside inside with a forest of trees
and a pumpkin patch.
Day 10: Bolzano (Sept. 28)
The
morning began with something totally different: a visit to see Otzi, a 5,300
year old glacial mummy whose body was discovered by hikers in 1991. Our tickets
for the Museo Archeologico allowed us
to enter 30 minutes before the museum opened, so we were able to get up close
and personal to Otzi.
As amazing as it was to see Otzi, the science behind his discovery was even
more fascinating as it revealed his eye color, last meal, blood type, diseases he had (such as cardiovascular disease), and a theory on how he was murdered.
We also learned how the tattoos on his body were used as a form of acupuncture
for pain and arthritis and that the location of the tattoos correspond to
ancient Chinese acupuncture charts.
A
walking tour of Bolzano introduced us to a city that had us asking: Italy or
Austria? Indeed, throughout history that area has belonged to both countries, but after WWI it was officially declared part of Italy. But today, with most of the locals speaking both Italian and German, with
the street signs written in both languages, and with apple strudel and tiramisu
offered as dessert options, it's a little disorienting knowing we are in Italy but feeling as if we are in Austria. (In fact, when Maria and
Thalia were hiking on Soprobolzano and stopped to ask directions to a church, the elderly
gentleman spoke no Italian at all!)
After our guided city tour, we had some free time for lunch and shopping, then later that afternoon the group
boarded the Renon cable car for a 15-minute ride to the sun plateau of
Soprabolzano where we hiked, had a gelato, photographed the views, and
enjoyed the crisp, mountain air.
At dinner
that evening we enjoyed an Italian-German meal at Ristorante Wirtshaus Vogele—ravioli for a first course, goulash for the second (unless you ordered
the polenta), and for dessert we had a delicious apple strudel with a vanilla cream sauce.
Downtown Bolzano.
Otzi, the 5,300 year old glacial mummy, was discovered by
hikers in 1991. At first treated like a modern-day crime scene,
it wasn't until three days after the discovery that an archaeologist
was called to determine the real age of the body. The science
community was all abuzz with excitement. (And it was still considered
a murder since Otzi died after being shot in the back with an arrow.)
The Mercantile Museum
Founded in 1635 by Archduchess of Autstria, Claudia de Medici, the purpose
of the merchant court was to settle commercial disputes.
Going up, up, up on a cable car.
Soprabolzano: Maria, Gayle, Mary
Beautiful views, crisp mountain air.
Exploring Soprabolzano.
Ristorante Wirtshaus Vogele
Our last dinner in Bolzano.
A little Italian, a little German.
A quick story about the last photo above: In Bolzano my sister-in-law, Mary, and I had lunch at a sidewalk cafe. I ordered the stuffed potato dumplings (soooo good, similar to pierogies) and a glass of Fanta. Now, the Fanta in Italy is NOT like the Fanta in the States (which is too sweet and too orange). I don't drink soda, but when I am in Italy I do like their Fanta. When our waiter walked away with our order, I regretted not ordering a beer since our local guide that morning and gone on and on about the beer in Bolzano. But when the waiter brought our drinks, he served my Fanta in a large beer glass and with the color of the drink and the foam on top it LOOKED like a beer (kinda, sorta). When I thanked the waiter for my fake beer, he laughed.
Tomorrow: Venezia and Verona.
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