Family Trip to Italy: Verona Day 8 (Family Reunion)

 Day 8: Verona (Family Reunion) (Friday, May 22)

I woke up early this morning and went down to the lobby for breakfast. It was nice to have some time alone to contemplate what today would hold: a merging of my family with my Italian family. The last time I saw my relatives was in 2019, but it was much longer for my guys (the older boys were in middle school and Timothy in Kindergarten). This time I would be returning with my entire family, now all grown up: one son a brand-new engineer, two sons now married, and two lovely daughters-in-law. I had planned and longed for this day, wanting to share Verona with my family and my family with Verona. And that day was now. Today. I thought of my Nonna a lot.

It was still early, so I went walking around Piazza Bra. The street cleaners ambled slowly up via Mazzini and the sun was glistening on the wet cobblestones. A pigeon cooed gently atop a statue in Piazza Bra, a delivery truck dropped off a crate of wine bottles to a restaurant kitchen, and I took photos of the sun shining through the arches of the ancient amphitheater.

By mid-morning, everyone was up so we walked to Castel’ San Pietro, a Romanesque fortress overlooking the city. We purchased a one-way ticket for the funicular to take us to top where we walked from terrace to terrace marveling at the magnificent views. Of course, we took many photos. Although I have been to Castel San Pietro many times, it was nice to see it through the eyes of others.

We walked back down and everyone scattered to explore and shop. Joe, Timothy, and I sat in a restaurant in Piazza delle Erbe, enjoying a delicious margherita pizza and watching the shoppers meander through the market stalls. Our waiter was so charming and kept us so entertained that we just had to take a photo with him. On the way back to the hotel, I stopped at a Bialetti store and purchased a Moka pot designed by Dolce & Gabbana. I love my Moka pot.

Then, back to the hotel for showers to get ready for a big family reunion. We had arranged a meeting spot, and when we arrived at the appointed time there they were … my uncle, Silvio, and my cousin, Martha! Oh the joy! All the girls rode with Silvio, while poor Martha had all the guys (none of whom speak Italian). But she was a good sport!

Half an hour later we drove up a hill leading to my relatives’ home overlooking the valley. A huge welcome sign hung on il cancello (the gate) through which my relatives came out to greet us. Oh my goodness the joy! Hugs, kisses, introductions. More hugs and, yes, some tears. (In fact, I’m teary just typing this.)

With the sun slowly setting, we enjoyed apperitivi in Paola and Silvio’s garden. There were half a dozen conversations going on at once, and the air was filled with laughter, a little English, a little Italian, and a funny mixture of both. I was thrilled to finally meet my cousin Damiano’s children (Lidia, Rebecca, and Elia). We took a group photo.

When it was time for dinner, we went to Tizi and Luciano’s house where they had prepared a beautiful table complete with place cards featuring different Verona landmarks. All eighteen of us sat around the table enjoying tortellini and an assortment of cheeses, meats, breads, and pickled vegetables. There was wine and beer and Fanta (because Fanta tastes better in Italy).

There was a most delicious homemade tiramisu made by my cousin, Chiara.

We all sang happy birthday to my aunt Paola, met Chiara’s pet snake, marveled at Luciano’s homemade guitar, laughed at Damiano’s stories, talked all things Pokemon and Brain Rot with Lidia and Rebecca (I now know who Cappuccina Ballerina is). There was even a hula hoop demonstration and my uncle, Luciano, gave Timothy dating advice.

There were gifts for Lauren, Caroline, and me (bronze replicas of the bronze doors from the church of San Zeno in Verona).

The evening was perfect in every way except that, unfortunately, and like all good things, it came to an end. Our goodbyes were like our hellos from earlier in the evening: Hugs, kisses, well wishes. More hugs and, yes, tears.

A presto, la mia famiglia italiana!

Bacioni,

Maria, Joe, Timothy, Nicholas, Lauren, Jonathan, e Caroline

Family Trip to Italy: Verona Day 7 (Romeo and Juliet)

 Day 7: Verona (The City of Romeo & Juliet) (Thursday, May 21)

This morning, while we waited for our driver to pick us up for the two-hour drive to Verona, Jonathan, Caroline, and I went to get a cappuccino. Make that a cappuccino AND a cornetto because—hello!—ITALY.

We hurried back to our apartment, which we were sad to leave. It had been perfect for our family, and it had been nice having space to hang out in the evening playing cards or just talking about the day.

Our driver arrived and, to be honest, I was a little worried about our luggage situation … as in, would it all fit?!? For some reason, not only was our luggage getting heavier, but it was somehow multiplying. Huh. No idea how that even happens. But our driver was very charming—nessun problema!—and with a little rearranging here and little shoving there it all fit!

Of course, midway through our drive we had to stop at another Autogrill.  Again, there is nothing like an Autogrill. In fact, it inspired this limerick:

An Autogrill right on the highway,
Serves coffee that’s done the Italian way.
You grab a panino,
Quickly down un espressino,
Then back in the car and away!

We arrived in Verona in the early afternoon and checked into the Hotel Giulietta e Romeo, a charming hotel located right in the heart of downtown. After storing our luggage in our rooms, we headed out to explore. Of all the places on our trip, I was most excited about Verona. I had so many stories to tell, so many memories to relive. I would have to restrain myself, though, or risk boring everyone 😉.

But I wasn’t the only one who loved Verona. Shakespeare himself used Verona as the setting for two of his plays: Romeo and Juliet, and Two Gentlemen from Verona. In fact, near the clock tower in the main square (Piazza Bra) there is a plaque with Romeo’s quote about his forced exile:

"There is no world without Verona walls, / But purgatory, torture, hell itself. / Hence banished is banish'd from the world, / And world's exile is death." (Romeo and Juliet, Act 3, Scene 3)

To set the stage for our first afternoon in Verona (see what I did there?), I had pre-purchased tickets for l’Arena (the Roman amphitheater) and for Juliet’s house.

Fortified with a panino from All’Antico Vinaio, we headed to l’Arena, which is still used today for concerts and, most importantly, a world-renowned summer opera season. Inside, we wandered through the ancient passageways and climbed the giant stone steps all the way to the top. So many memories! I attended my first opera here with my Nonna (chapter 4 of my book), and I remember her telling me how traditional opera singers do not use microphones during live performances as the natural acoustics allow unamplified voices to project across the massive open-air space (which holds up to 15,000 spectators).

After the Arena, we explored the downtown area, walking around Piazza Bra (with its outdoor restaurants and cafes), down via Mazzini (and its high-end shopping), and to Piazza delle Erbe (with its market stalls). As a little girl I always loved wandering through the stalls of Piazza delle Erbe, and I still felt the magic.  

Late in the afternoon we went to tour Juliet’s house and balcony. Incredibly, while I often stood in the courtyard looking up at the balcony, I had never been inside Juliet’s house or stood on the balcony looking down into the courtyard. Nicholas and Timothy volunteered to remain in the courtyard so that they could take photos of us up on the balcony. The house contained three stories, decorated in the period, with Shakespeare and Romeo and Juliet references throughout.

Then it was back to the hotel for showers, dinner at Hostaria la Vecchia Fontanina (local restaurant recommended by my aunt), a semifreddo at Gelateria Savoia (open since 1939), and a nighttime walk in the beautiful Piazza Bra where we sat on some benches just talking, laughing, and telling stories. The evening ended on our hotel room balcony playing cards with Nicholas and Lauren (and counting the lizards on the building exterior across the alleyway).

Tomorrow: a family reunion!